Caribbean Myths and Reality
Guidebooks and "word of mouth" about Costa Rica can be great sources of information . . . or misinformation. Because it is one of the least developed areas of the country (something those of us who live here think is quite an advantage), Cahuita and the rest of the Southern Caribbean region seem subject to the most misinformation.
There are many reasons for the myths about the Southern Caribbean. Some writers, or speakers, have never actually been here. Some haven't visited for years. Many base their statements on second-hand information or a quick pass-though along the main streets, without ever taking the time to explore and discover its amazing character or to adapt to its climate. Even many native Costa Ricans have little or no actual knowledge about the Southern Caribbean.
In a country with an otherwise very homogenous population, the Southern Caribbean stands out as multi-racial, multi-national and multi-cultural (a recent survey found 45 different countries represented in the area's population). Again, most of us who live here consider that a great advantage.
In the village of Cahuita, people of every shade of skin and every economic level live, work and play peacefully side-by-side. There are no gated communities, condominium projects, or other areas where people of the same race or nationality huddle together, separated from their neighbors and from the culture of their adopted country. There is simply Cahuita.
Development of Cahuita is progressing, but in its characteristically modest way. The past year saw the opening of our first "shopping center", a small one to be sure, but one that brought the very welcome additions of our first bank and pharmacy. Another new feature: regular flights on two regional airline between the Limón airport, and either San José or Panama's famous Bocas del Toro (nearby Bocas is also readily accessible by an inexpensive combination of bus, taxi and water taxi.) The main highway from Limón to Cahuita was repaired so, at least for now, the horror stories of giant potholes are only a bad memory.
And, speaking of roads, guidebooks almost invariably state that Cahuita has only gravel or dirt roads. It is true that the village's main road, which starts at the glorious National Park, passes through the small town center, and then follows north for miles along the beautiful "black beach", has never been paved. Although the national government has provided grants in recent years for road improvement, the community of Cahuita -- like the pristine cloud forest community in Monteverde -- chose not to cover its main road with asphalt. Well paved roads encourage speeding cars, a distinct disadvantage where most of the traffic is by bicycle or on foot (two or more). This sign, along a stretch of black beach, explains it well:
Of course Cahuita did not
reject the road improvement money. It used it to cover most
of the main street leading from the Limón highway to the
town's center - not with asphalt, but with tropical flowers
and carefully hand laid bricks:
If you've heard the other great myth about the Cahuita area -- that its weather is intolerably hot and humid -- click here for a dose of reality.